In our exploration of temperate food forest layers, we’ve been taking a closer look at each of the 7 layers; what we can plant there and how to design each layer for optimum results across the whole garden.
In this article, we’ll be looking at tree crops, big and small… the roles they play and how we can incorporate them within the rest of the ecosystem that makes up the forest garden.
The Two Categories of the Tree Layer in a Food Forest
- The understory – Smaller trees and larger shrubs such as apples, plums, and hazels up to around 6 meters (20ft).
- The canopy layer – Taller trees like chestnuts, pine nuts, and alders that rise above the understory.
The Tree Layers Perform Multiple Functions in the Forest Garden
- Providing the right quantity of shade and shelter for the rest of the system to thrive.
- Drawing up water and minerals from deep in the subsoil – an integral part of various bio-cycles.
- Sequestering large volumes of carbon from the atmosphere, accumulating biomass.
- Depositing large volumes of carbon back down to the soil surface via annual leaf fall, building soil.
- Offering an invaluable habitat and sustenance for countless birds, mammals, insects, and micro-fauna.
- Producing edible, medicinal, and otherwise useful crops for the gardener!
Let’s take a look at what we can grow in each of the two layers in more detail.
The Understory Layer of a Food Forest
Sweetheart Cherry Tree from Nature Hills Nursery, Inc.
Crops like apples, plums, cherries, pears, peaches, apricots, and figs are fruit tree species that most people are likely to know, but there are plenty more exciting possibilities for the temperate forest garden understory too…
Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas)
Cornelian Cherry (Cornus mas) is a fruit that’s well known to South-Eastern Europe, yet hasn’t found much favor in the rest of the world yet. I wonder why because this is one of my very favorite of all berries.
When fully ripe, they really explode with a cocktail of flavors, including very rich cherry tones – hence the name. Also a very pretty shrub, with bright yellow flowers in late winter offering the bees early sustenance.
- Tree seed
Red Mulberry Tree from Nature Hills Nursery, Inc.
Mulberries are another of my favorite fruits that deserve to be planted far more widely.
Although the dried fruit is now becoming more popular on the health-food scene, the pleasure of eating the fresh berries is one reserved solely for the gardener – they’re so delicate that they can’t even make it to the market without “melting”!
- Morus Pakistani (Mulberry) one starter plant, bare root, 3-6 inches high plant
- Sunlight exposure: Full Sun
Blue Sausage Tree (Decaisnea fargesii)
I find its other name “Blue Bean” a bit misleading since its seeds are not edible – but the slimy flesh that surrounds them is indeed sweet and pleasant! Just as long as no one around you minds the onslaught of seeds fired from your mouth after each bite!
- Ornamental Fruit.
Hawthorn (Crataegus sp.)
Another family of trees that can be included in the understorey is Hawthorn (Crataegus sp.) – several of which produce cherry-sized fruits that taste more like sweet apple pulp.
Hawthorns tend to be tough, drought-resistant plants that also serve up an annual feast for pollinators.
Medlar (Mespilus germanica)
Very yummy, as long as you don’t mind the tough skin and spitting out the rock-hard seeds!
Gold Nugget Loquat from Nature Hills Nursery, Inc.
Lastly, and also known as “Japanese Medlars”, Loquats are a great understory fruit for warm-temperate climates.
When I was in Spain years ago, I feasted upon kilos of these straight from the trees – their sweet-tart juiciness had me totally hooked! The leaves can also be brewed into a tea known in Japan as “biwa-cha”.
- The Loquat Tree is classified as a sub-tropical fruit tree, which means it's a bit hardier...
Nuts in the Understory Layer
Hazelnut from Nature Hills Nursery, Inc.
Whilst Hazels are very at home growing under the shadow of taller trees, Almonds really need a full day of sun to give their best crops. Look out for Almond cultivars that are resistant to “Peach Leaf Curl” disease, to which they are susceptible.
- Tree Size: 2 year old tree that is approximately 4-5 feet tall
- Estimated Chilling Requirements (Below 45°): 800 hours
- USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9 Pollination: Partially Self-Fruitful (To Increase Production...
One of the most exciting things about forest gardens is the sheer variety of crops one can grow.
Hardy Pepper (Zanthoxylum sp)
If growing your own spices in a temperate climate hadn’t occurred to you, you might be intrigued to learn about the Zanthoxylum family, or hardy pepper trees.
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Bay Laurel from Nature Hills Nursery, Inc.
The Bay Tree or Bay Laurel (Lauris nobilis) is a better-known spice tree for its highly scented leaves. Its evergreen nature also makes it useful for shelter during the winter months.
The Canopy Layer of the Food Forest Garden
Smaller forest gardens may not require the presence of large trees to complete the final 7th layer. But, for larger plots, the canopy layer adds an extra dimension that gives the garden a much more “foresty” kind of feel.
Let’s take a look at some of the taller trees that can be planted there.
Of the taller trees that are edible in the forest garden, most of them are nuts.
Nut crops are among the most exciting in the forest garden for me, as they can really deliver the bulk quantities of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats that would otherwise be produced by far more intrusive methods of farming.
Here are some of the species best suited to a temperate forest garden.
Sweet Chestnut (Castanea sativa)
Sweet Chestnuts are perhaps my favorite nut crop of all, giving huge yields of a nut that is similar in nutritional value to cereal crops. They can also be used in much the same way – processed into flour for baking bread, pies, and cakes…
With comparable yields, why couldn’t we be growing them instead of fields of wheat?
Well, we could! And it would save enormous resources too.
Manregion English Walnut Tree from Nature Hills Nursery, Inc.
Walnuts are more typical of a nut in their nutritional makeup – being very high in fats rather than carbohydrates. They tend to do best in warm, dry climates, but some recent selections are now cropping well in Northern Europe too.
There are also various relatives of the walnut that can be cultivated for nut production.
Black Walnuts (Juglans nigra), Butternuts (Juglans cinerea), and Heartnuts (Juglans ailantifolia) are all being trialed in various parts of the world, although they often still have rather tough shells and less meat inside than the classic walnut.
Diversity is imperative though and with a little more breeding work, these species could add much-needed variety to the forest garden nut menu.
A slight drawback of growing any kind of walnut is the chemical Juglone which they excrete into neighbouring soil, inhibiting the growth of nearby plants. Look out for companions that are more tolerant of this if you wish to grow walnuts in your forest garden.
Pine Nuts are actually harvested from several different species of pine tree which produce especially large cones and kernels that are sizeable enough to be worth extracting.
They generally do best in areas of cold winters and warm, dry summers, and several trees are needed to ensure good pollination.
- GROW YOUR OWN PINE NUTS
- BRIGHT SILVERY-BLUE LONG NEEDLES
- EXTREMELY HARDY TO ZONE 2 (-50)
- SHAGGY GRAY BARK IS EXTREMELY SHOWY AND ADDS SIGNIFICANT WINTER INTEREST.
- 2 - YEAR TREE - REACHES 100 FEET AT MATURITY - SHIPPED IN A CONTAINER WITH SOIL - ZONE 2-8
All acorns are in fact inedible!
They just require us to rinse out bitter tannins before we can turn them into something useful.
A few species with lower tannins can even be roasted like chestnuts and eaten directly. Acorn bread was a staple of the native Californians and acorns are still eaten regularly in Korea. There are many great recipes to try!
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Monkey Puzzle (Araucaria)
I was very impressed trying the nuts of this tree, which fall from huge, football-sized cones. Each nut is up to 5cm (2″) long and to me tasted a bit like a peanut!
- Not Shipping to ID, OR & WA due to Japanese Beetle Quarantine
Ginkgo biloba is better known in the west as an ornamental or medicinal tree, yet the seeds inside the disgusting smelling fruits are, in fact, very good to eat!
In China and Japan they make popular snacks, and I think it’s high time the western world caught up to the wonders of Ginkgo nuts, which I’ve seen cropping nicely all over Europe.
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Other Canopy Crops
There are a few other ways we can utilize our canopy layer…
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- Zone: 3-9 / Mature Height: 40' - 60' Spread: to 40' / Growth rate: fast / Full Sun / Soil:...
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Nitrogen fixing species such as Alders (Alnus sp.) and Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) are very useful as “fertility masts” – forming symbiotic relationships with soil bacteria to solidify atmospheric nitrogen – one of the key elements for plant growth.
Tall trees can also provide much-needed shelter for the garden.
Valuable Wood Resources
The wood of any tree or shrub species is a naturally valuable resource in itself too!
If the forest garden ever needs substantial pruning or thinning out, this wood can be utilized for all manner of things.
Shiitake, Oyster, and Lion’s Mane are among the easiest and most delicious varieties of gourmet mushrooms you can grow. True Leaf Market has an awesome range of mushroom plugs and DIY mushroom kits to get you started.
Wood can also be left to rot on the ground to enrich the soil, or even buried under crops that need extra fertility.
In Hugelkultur, large volumes of wood are buried under vegetable beds to provide hummus over long periods of time.
And let’s not forget firewood.
And if you want to save the carbon whilst doing so, you could always build a gasifier – a kind of stove that burns only the gases in the wood, producing almost zero carbon dioxide. It leaves you with a light, black, millennium-long soil conditioner: biochar!
Now there’s a win-win solution…
Designing Your Understory and Canopy Layers
The most critical of all elements in the temperate forest garden is usually sunlight.
We must arrange our canopy and understory layers carefully to let in as much sunlight as we can to the fruiting shrubs and perennial vegetation below.
In this way, less is more!
The most common mistake people make when designing their forest gardens is to include too many tree species, which eventually cast too much shade for optimum cropping conditions below.
Carefully mark the orientation of the sun, and how this changes at different times of the year.
Whilst midsummer sun may reach most parts of the forest garden floor, the fall sun is also very important for later ripening crops. There are some great apps for smartphones to help with this these days!
Researching each species’ sun requirements is an important, time-consuming part of this process, and I’d highly recommend reading some material dedicated to the subject, such as the book suggested at the end of the article.
Make sure you know the eventual height and spread of each tree you’ll be planting.
Although it might be difficult to imagine in the beginning, a sweet chestnut tree could easily exceed 10 meters in width within your lifetime!
I find a great way of planning the tree layers of the forest garden is to cut out color-coded paper circles to represent the size of each tree, before placing it on a garden plan of matching scale. This way the design can be moved about and swapped around as your ideas develop over time.
Here is a simple example I created for a Mandala forest garden in Sussex, UK:
Zone Your Trees for Easy Harvesting
Another factor to consider when planning your tree layers is placing trees according to how frequently you’ll be harvesting them.
While many tree crops like winter apples and nuts can be harvested in one or two sessions for storage, others like summer apples and mulberries will give a steady supply of fresh produce over a longer season.
Locate trees that offer regular, fresh produce in places where you will pass often, and those which you only need to harvest annually at the garden’s far reaches.
Think About Pollination
Most of the tree crops listed above are self-sterile meaning they need at least one compatible partner to pollinate them.
Fruit trees are normally insect-pollinated and simply need positioning nearby others of the same species that blossom at the same time.
Nut trees on the other hand are mostly wind-pollinated and often need planting in larger groups for good yields – although there are exceptions. Ask your stockist to guide you on pollination if you are in any doubt!
…and take your time!
With all of this in mind, the canopy and understory are laid out with great care so that all of the elements combine together to produce optimum yields over the whole system.
It can be a long process, but when it’s not rushed it can be brilliant fun, and you’ll be rewarded for every bit of love and care you put into your plan.
Don’t forget that one of the most important yields is your enjoyment – as the gardener!
It’s my wish that the rays of dappled sunlight, gently filtering through the well-crafted layers of trees and shrubs will bring joy to your heart for many years to come.
Martin Crawford’s Creating a Forest Garden is an excellent guide for beginners and advanced gardeners to learn more about the art of forest gardening. Incorporating his 20 years of experience in Devon, UK, I’d highly recommend this book for any prospective forest gardener in a temperate climate.
- Green Books