How To Grow Gorgeous Blackberry Shrubs From Seed, Cuttings, Or Suckers!

Dreaming of juicy, sun-warmed blackberries plucked from your garden? Then read our blackberry growing guide! We show how to grow blackberries from seeds, suckers, or cuttings. Either method can transform your backyard into a delicious berry paradise that will enrich your homestead with tasty jams, jellies, pies, and sweet treats for years to come!

Black satin blackberries growing in the food forest garden.

Sound intriguing?

Then let’s grow some backyard blackberries!

Germinate And Grow Blackberries From Seed

Green blackberry seedling growing in a black container or pot.

Look, I’ll be straight with you. Starting blackberries from seed is NOT the ideal method. It takes patience (we’re talking years before significant harvests). But if you’re stubborn and love a challenge (no judgment here!), follow these tips.

(And no worries. I also show how to grow blackberries from suckers and cuttings, which are much easier. But first, to the seeds.)

Step 1 – Extract & Clean Seeds

Fish out seeds from ripe blackberries, then soak them in water for 1 to 2 days, changing the water daily. This fermentation process helps break down the pulp and prepares seeds for germination. Rinse thoroughly when done.

Step 2 – Cold Stratification

Blackberry seeds need winter to germinate best. But we have a few tricks up our sleeve! Place your clean blackberry seeds in moist sand or paper towels in a sealed container and refrigerate for 3 to 5 months. This temperature zone mimics winter conditions and breaks blackberry seed dormancy.

Step 3 – Sow Seeds Carefully

Remove seeds from the fridge. Plant your stratified blackberry seeds in seed-starting mix, barely covering them (1/8 inch deep). Keep the berry’s soil consistently moist but not soggy. Place in bright, indirect light. 70°F to 75°F works best.

Step 4 – Practice Monk-Like Patience

Germination can take anywhere from 2 to 3 weeks to several months. Yes, seriously. When blackberry seedlings reach about 2 or 3 inches tall and have a pair of true leaves, consider transplanting your blackberry seedlings outdoors into your garden – but ensure the risk of frost has passed!

Using this method, you might have to wait 2 or 3 years before significant fruit production.

Growing Blackberry Shrubs From Cuttings

Many blackberry cuttings growing in small seed trays.

Growing blackberries from cuttings is way easier, faster, and more reliable! You’ll get berries much sooner and plants identical to the parent. Win-win!

Step 1 – Snip Smart

Take 4 to 6-inch cuttings from healthy, disease-free blackberry canes. Choose first-year green canes (primocanes) in spring or hardwood cuttings in late fall/winter. Make clean cuts below a blackberry leaf node, and remove all but the top 2 to 3 leaves.

Step 2 – Root Those Babies

Dip the berry shoot’s cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful), then plant in well-draining potting mix. Keep soil consistently moist and place in bright, indirect light. For best results, create a mini greenhouse by covering it with a clear plastic bag and leaving some ventilation.

Step 3 – Monitor & Transplant

After 4 or 5 weeks, gently tug on cuttings to check for resistance (a sign roots have formed). Once roots develop, gradually acclimate your new plants to standard conditions by removing the plastic covering for extended periods.

Step 4 – Plant In Final Location

When roots are well-established (usually after 2 to 3 months), transplant your blackberry babies to their permanent home. Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Space blackberry plants 3 to 5 feet apart, as these little guys will spread!

Propagating Blackberries From Root Suckers

Diagram depicting blackberry plant with several suckers used for plant propagation.

Want the express lane to Blackberry Town? Suckers (those shoots that pop up from the root system) are your shortcut to quick blackberry abundance. Here’s the no-nonsense approach.

Step 1 – Scout And Select

Keep an eye out for healthy suckers emerging from the root system of established blackberry plants. The perfect candidates are vigorous shoots about six to ten inches tall with some root development. Early spring or fall, after fruiting, are prime times for this method!

Step 2 – Dig And Separate

Armed with a sharp spade, dig about eight inches away from the blackberry sucker, going down ten or twelve inches deep. Carefully excavate the young berry plant, ensuring you’ve captured a good chunk of the berry’s root system. Use clean, sharp pruners to sever the connection to the mother plant’s root.

Step 3 – Replant And Nurture

Plant your newly liberated blackberry shrub immediately in well-prepared soil. Maintain the original planting depth. The soil line on the blackberry plant’s stem is your guide. Water thoroughly and apply a generous mulch layer. These ready-to-go berry transplants establish quickly and often produce fruit in their second season!

Blackberry Growing Requirements – The Ultimate Cheat Sheet

Ripe delicious red and black blackberries growing in the garden.

Growing blackberries is surprisingly forgiving for beginners, though mastering their pruning and training can be tricky. With the right conditions and a bit of attention, you’ll be swimming in berries before you know it!

Sunlight

Blackberries thrive in full sun (6+ hours daily) but tolerate partial shade in hotter growing zones. More sun equals more berries, so choose your planting location wisely.

Climate

Blackberries love USDA zones 5 through 10. They prefer mild winters and moderate summers. Different blackberry cultivars have varying chill requirements, so select cultivars suited to your region’s climate.

Unsure which blackberry cultivars match your growing zone? Chester, Doyle, and Black Satin blackberries are famous for thriving in chilly growing zones, including 5 and 6. Navaho, Triple Crown, and Boysenberry blackberries are more suitable for warm zones, including 7 to 10.

Soil + Fertilizer

Well-draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5) with plenty of organic matter is ideal. Apply balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in early spring, then nitrogen-focused fertilizer after blackberry fruiting, but don’t overdo it! Excessive nitrogen produces lush blackberry shrub foliage at the expense of delicious fruit.

Watering

Consistent moisture is key, especially during blackberry fruit development – these thirsty shrubs want 1 to 2 inches weekly. Established blackberry plants are drought-tolerant but produce best with regular watering and good drainage. Soggy roots lead to berry root rot and plant death!

Harvesting

Berries won’t continue ripening after picking, so harvest only entirely black, easily detached fruits (usually 2 to 3 times weekly during season). Morning harvesting yields the sweetest, firmest blackberries with maximum shelf life. Time your blackberry harvests so the morning dew has dried, but still before the afternoon heat!

Blackberry Vine Pruning

Blackberry bushes produce fruit on canes (stems) in their second year of growth, called floricanes. Proper pruning keeps your plants healthy and productive. Here’s what to do, step by step.

After Harvest (Summer):

Once you’ve picked all the berries, cut the canes that produced fruit (floricanes) down to ground level. These canes won’t fruit again and can drain energy from the plant.

During Winter (Dormant Season):

Look at the new canes that grew this year (primocanes). These will produce next year’s berries.
Keep 4 to 5 strong, healthy primocanes per plant, about 6 inches apart. Remove the rest by cutting them at ground level.
For trailing blackberry varieties (ones that grow long, sprawling canes), shorten the side branches of these primocanes to 12 to 18 inches. This encourages larger berries, though you’ll get fewer of them.

In Summer (Growing Season):

When new primocanes reach the height you want (usually 3 to 4 feet), snip off the tips. This encourages the canes to branch out, yielding more fruit next year.

Tips For Safe Pruning:

This pruning schedule keeps your blackberry bushes tidy, healthy, and ready to produce a great crop each year!

Blackberry Planting And Growing Schedule

Delicious blackberries growing on a healthy green blackberry shrub.

Here are the critical dates all blackberry growers should know.

April

Once your garden’s soil is workable, it is prime time for planting bare-root or container blackberries. Apply balanced fertilizer to established plants and finish pruning any remaining dead canes before new growth accelerates.

May

Install trellises or support systems for trailing blackberry varieties. Monitor for berry pests like aphids and spider mites as the weather warms, treating with a blast from the garden hose. Keep new plantings consistently watered during this critical establishment period.

June

Flowering and early berry formation begin! Regularly water (1 to 2 inches weekly) and apply mulch around your berry vines to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Pinch the tips of primocanes (first-year canes) when they reach the desired height of around 3 to 4 feet.

July

Peak harvest season for most varieties! Harvest ripe berries every 2 to 3 days. Maintain vigilance against birds (netting may be necessary) and spotted wing drosophila – AKA fruit flies! Continue regular watering during fruit development.

August

Late-season harvest continues. Remove spent floricanes (second-year canes that have finished fruiting) at ground level to improve air circulation and plant health. Continue watering as weather dictates, especially during dry spells.

September

Apply fall fertilizer low in nitrogen to encourage winter hardiness. Thin excess primocanes, leaving 4 to 6 strong canes per plant for next year’s fruit. Begin reducing water slightly to help plants harden off for winter.

Outstanding Blackberry Cultivars – Find Your Perfect Match

There are hundreds of blackberry cultivars, and we love all of them! However, these five top our list as some of our favorites for gardeners and homesteaders.

Chester

Chester is a late-season thornless blackberry variety with incredible productivity and exceptional cold hardiness. Chester produces masses of medium-large berries that maintain their glossy black appearance and firm texture long after harvest, making them the commercial grower’s dream and home gardener’s delight.

USDA Growth Zone: Zones 5 through 9, with excellent winter hardiness to -20°F.
Fruiting Season: Late July through September, often extending the blackberry harvest by weeks.
Shrub Size: 4 to 5 feet tall with semi-erect canes spreading 3 to 4 feet wide.
Flavor: Sweet-tart berries with excellent sugar content that develop fully even in cooler climates.

Chester’s remarkable storage life (up to 2 weeks when refrigerated) makes it ideal for market growers and busy home gardeners. The berries retain their shape beautifully in baking and make exceptional blackberry wine with rich, complex notes.

Oregon Thornless

Oregon Thornless is a trailing blackberry variety that thrives in cooler climates where other cultivars struggle. It produces medium-sized berries with an intense, wine-like flavor that develops even in less sunny conditions, making it ideal for coastal or northern growers.

USDA Growth Zone: Zones 6 through 9.
Fruiting Season: July to early August.
Shrub Size: 4 to 6 feet tall, spreading habit with thornless canes.
Flavor: Mildly sweet berries. Excellent for fresh snacking and baking.

Oregon Thornless is perfect for gardeners who hate gloves. No thorns, no fuss! It’s also great for tossing into fruit salads, baking into muffins, or stirring into creamy yogurt.

Black Satin

Black Satin is an early-ripening semi-erect blackberry variety that’s incredibly cold-hardy (to zone 5) with gloriously large, firm berries that hold their shape beautifully for preserves and pies. Its extended harvest period and excellent disease resistance make it a low-maintenance favorite for busy gardeners.

USDA Growth Zone: Zones 5 through 9.
Fruiting Season: Mid-July to early August.
Shrub Size: 4 to 5 feet tall with arching, semi-erect canes.
Flavor: Medium to large berries with a tart-sweet flavor, perfect for pies and cobblers.

Bake your Black Satin blackberries into a rustic galette, simmer them into a bold barbecue sauce, or blend them into a smoothie with banana and mint.

Boysenberry

Boysenberry is not an authentic blackberry! Instead, it’s a delicious cross between blackberry, raspberry, and loganberry, offering the best of all worlds. Its deep maroon berries deliver an intoxicating sweet-tart flavor with floral notes that make award-winning jams and unforgettable cobblers.

USDA Growth Zone: Zones 5 through 9.
Fruiting Season: June to early July.
Shrub Size: 4 to 6 feet tall, with trailing or sprawling growth.
Flavor: Deep maroon berries with rich, tangy-sweet flavor. It’s excellent for preserves and sauces.

You can enjoy Boysenberry in a variety of ways. Make old-fashioned jam, whip it into whipped cream for a delightful fruit topping, or cook it into a luscious syrup perfect for drizzling over waffles.

Ouachita

A heat-tolerant, disease-resistant University of Arkansas introduction that produces lovely, firm berries that hold up exceptionally well for shipping and storage. Its upright growth habit requires minimal trellising, making it perfect for gardeners who want delicious berries without complicated support systems.

USDA Growth Zone: Zones 5 through 9.
Fruiting Season: Early June to early July.
Shrub Size: 4 to 5 feet tall, upright and thornless.
Flavor: Firm, sweet berries with excellent shelf life. Perfect for fresh eating or freezing.

Ouachita delivers commercial-grade berries in a home garden package. Eat by the handful, freeze for winter smoothies, or layer into a chilled blackberry parfait with whipped cream and granola.

Common Problems With Blackberry Plants

Hungry songbirds visiting the blackberry shrubs for a snack.

Even experienced gardeners make these embarrassing blackberry blunders! Here’s how to avoid these facepalm-worthy mistakes and rescue your berry patch from disaster.

The Great Berry Heist – Birds & Your Blackberries

You’ve nurtured your plants for months, waiting for those berries to ripen, only to discover your backyard bird population has declared your patch an all-you-can-eat buffet!

Those perfectly ripe berries disappearing overnight isn’t your imagination. It’s a coordinated avian assault!

Plant extra bushes (consider it the “bird tax”), or protect your precious harvest with bird netting draped over the entire plant or row.

Secure the netting at the bottom to prevent clever birds from finding side entrances.

Remember: The birds were here first. So growing enough to share is the neighborly approach to your feathered frenemies!

Poor Site Selection

That sunny spot in spring might become a baking inferno by July! Before planting, track sun patterns throughout the day and choose a location with morning sun and afternoon shade in hot climates.

If your plants are already struggling with scorched leaves or withered berries, create temporary shade with agricultural cloth during peak afternoon heat while preparing a better location for fall transplanting.

Lack Of Support

Nothing’s more disheartening than finding your laden canes sprawled on the ground with rotting berries! Even “erect” varieties benefit from support. For established plants without trellising, install T-posts at either end of rows and run heavy-gauge wire at 2-foot height intervals. Gently tie existing canes to the support with soft garden twine, focusing on fruit-bearing floricanes first to salvage your harvest.

Not Pruning + Managing Spread

Ignoring pruning leads to an impenetrable briar patch that produces less fruit year after year! Reclaim neglected plants by removing all dead, diseased, and weak canes at ground level.

Next, cut out all two-year-old canes that have already fruited (usually brown and brittle). Finally, thin, healthy first-year canes 4 to 6 per linear foot. Install root barriers 18 inches deep around existing patches to halt their march across your garden.

Conclusion

Ripe black and red blackberries growing on a blackberry shrub in the backyard garden.

Your blackberry growing adventure promises challenges and sweet rewards – from learning how to grow blackberries from seed to managing a mature patch. Remember that every berry farmer started somewhere – usually with dirt under their fingernails and fruit stains on their shirts.

What about you?

Will you grow some blackberries this year?
What blackberry cultivar or variety will you grow first?
Will you grow enough for the birds? They’ll become your best friends if you grow some for them!

Thanks for reading.

Have a great day!