How To Plant And Grow Perfect Plum Trees In Your Backyard Garden - The Ultimate Guide!

Welcome to the ultimate guide to growing plum trees in your backyard! Growing plum trees from pits is trickier than other fruit trees. But it’s worth the effort since plum trees have significant benefits – including baskets of delicious, nutritious fruit and striking blossoms that bees and pollinators love.

Delicious Mirabelle plums growing in the backyard food forest.

So, let’s grow one, two, or three plum trees together!

Shall we?

Germinating Plum Seeds (Pits) From Scratch

Delicious and ripe Zwetschge plums and many pits.

We recommend buying grafted plum trees from your favorite plant nursery rather than growing from the pit. Why? Because plum trees are often hybrids. So – you never know what fruit a random plum pit will produce! However, germinating plum pits is inexpensive and fun – so we’re sharing our easy, four-step process.

Step 1 – Extract And Clean The Seeds

Select ripe plums from a variety you enjoy. Remove the flesh and gently scrub the pit under running water to remove any leftover plum fruit. Allow the pit to dry completely at room temperature for 3 to 5 days.

Step 2 – Stratify The Seeds

Plum seeds require a cold period (stratification) to break dormancy. Wrap the cleaned pits in damp paper towels, place them in a plastic bag, then put them in the refrigerator for 8 to 12 weeks. Check occasionally to ensure the paper towels remain moist.

Step 3 – Plant The Stratified Seeds

Once the stratification period is complete, plant each plum pit about 2 inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Keep the plum’s soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Then, place in a warm location (65 to 75°F) with indirect sunlight.

Step 4 – Care For Seedlings

Germination typically takes 1 to 3 months, after which the seedlings need at least 6 to 8 hours of daily light. Once seedlings grow a few sets of true plum leaves, gradually introduce them to more direct sunlight. Transplant to larger containers when they outgrow their starter pots, and eventually move them outdoors after the danger of frost has passed.

Planting Grafted Plum Trees – The Fast Track To Fruit

Small raspberry seedlings and plum tree sapling growing in pots.

Grafted plum trees from your favorite tree are a better option! Nursery trees save you time and ensure your tree provides yummy fruit.

Step 1 – Select The Right Site

Choose a location with full sun (6+ hours daily) and well-draining soil. Plum trees love slightly acidic or neutral soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5). Ensure adequate spacing – standard plum trees need 15 to 20 feet between trees, while dwarf varieties need 8 to 10 feet.

Step 2 – Prepare The Planting Hole

Dig nearly twice as wide as the plum tree’s root ball and about the same depth. Loosen the garden soil at the bottom and sides of the tree hole. For container-grown plum trees, gently remove the tree and loosen any tightly-knit roots before planting it in the hole.

Step 3 – Plant At The Correct Depth

Position the tree so the graft union (the swollen area on the lower trunk) remains 2 to 3 inches above soil level. Then, backfill with the original soil, tamping gently to remove air pockets. Create a small basin around the tree for watering.

Step 4 – Water And Mulch

Water thoroughly after planting – offer about 5 gallons. Add a 3-inch layer of organic mulch (wood chips, straw, or compost) in a 3-foot circle around the plum tree. Keep it a few inches away from the plum tree’s trunk to prevent rot.

Step 5 – Plum Tree Care

Stake young trees (recommended) to provide support. Water deeply once a week during the first growing season – giving about 5 gallons each time. Prune only to remove damaged branches in the first year.

What To Expect – Timeline To Fruit

A bumble bee visiting some beautiful plum tree flowers.

Plum trees grown from seed typically take 3 to 5 years to bear fruit. Grafted trees generally produce fruit within 2 to 4 years after planting, depending on the plum tree variety and growing conditions.

Plum Tree Growing Requirements

A healthy Italian plum tree with thick heavy and ripe fruit.

Here’s everything your plums need to flourish wildly in your backyard or food forest – whether you grow European, Japanese, or American hybrid varieties.

Sunlight

Plant your plum trees in the sunniest location in your yard for optimal results! They need at least 6 to 8 hours of daily sunlight. Inadequate sunlight results in lousy fruit production, weak growth, and increased disease susceptibility.

(While plums can tolerate partial shade, they will produce superior fruit sets in full sun.)

Avoid those areas of your backyard blocked by your barn or more significant trees – especially during morning hours when dew needs to dry quickly to prevent fungal issues.

Climate

Not all plum trees are equal when handling winter’s chill! Different varieties have their unique comfort zones across the USA.

European plums (Prunus domestica): More cold-hardy. Suitable for zones 4 to 8. Require 700 to 1,000 chill hours below 45°F.
Japanese plums (Prunus salicina): Less cold-tolerant. Best in zones 5 to 9. Needs 500 to 900 chill hours.
American hybrids: Often developed for specific climate challenges, with some varieties tolerating zone 3 conditions.

Watch out for those early spring flowers, though!

Plums are early risers in the bloom department – so they are vulnerable to spring’s last-minute cold snaps.

If gardening in warmer areas, look for those unique low-chill varieties developed for mild-winter regions.

No matter what type you choose, your plums will be happiest in spots with good air circulation. It gives them plenty of breathing room to avoid frost pockets and disease issues!

Soil + Fertilizer

Plum trees aren’t too picky about soil. But they’ll thank you with abundant harvests if you give them well-draining, moderately fertile ground with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.

They’re adaptable fruit crops that can handle different soil types. But they shine most in loamy soil rich with organic matter.

Before planting, grab a soil test kit to see what soil amendments your specific patch might need.

When fertilizing these fruit-bearing beauties, start small with new trees – just 1 oz of balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10 in spring after planting.

By year two, bump it to 2 oz and split feedings between early spring and summer.

Once your plum trees mature, apply 1 lb of balanced fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter measured at knee height. Offer half in early spring before flowering and half in early summer.

Watch out, though! Too much nitrogen turns your plum tree into a leafy show-off with fewer fruits.

Watering

Consistent moisture is crucial for plum tree establishment and fruit development! That said, water requirements vary by growth stage.

Newly planted plum trees need deep watering (5 gallons) once weekly for the first growing season. Established plum trees only need 1 to 2 inches of water weekly during the plum growing season.

Increase watering during critical periods like plum fruit development and drought conditions. Then, reduce it during the dormant season. However, don’t let those roots dry out entirely in winter!

Mulching your plum trees with a few inches of organic material also helps conserve plum tree moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Harvesting

Depending on variety and climate, plum trees typically ripen from mid-summer to early fall. There are three key plum harvesting indicators to look for!

First is their color. You want plum fruit to reach its mature color, which can be different depending on the cultivar – usually purple, red, yellow, or green.

Also, notice the texture. The plum should have a slight give when you press it with your thumb.

Then, wait for the perfect aroma. You should notice a sweet fragrance – and around this time, the plum should be easy to remove from the stem.

Unlike other fruits, plums generally don’t continue ripening significantly after picking. So, many farmers allow the fruit to soften slightly on the tree!

Plum Tree Planting And Growing Schedule

Beautiful plum tree with delicious juicy fruits growing on the branches.

Here are the critical dates all plum growers should know. Adjust timing by 2 to 3 weeks earlier for Southern regions (USDA zones 7 to 9) and 2 to 3 weeks later for Northern areas (USDA zones 4 to 5).

January And February

January and February are perfect for pruning your dormant plum trees in warmer regions. Complete stratification for plum pits started in the fall. Shop for bare-root trees while selection is best.

March

Plant bare-root plum trees when you can work your backyard soil. Last chance for dormant pruning in Northern regions. Apply the first round of fertilizer to established plum trees just before bud break. Spray fungicide before bud break in areas prone to brown rot.

April

Flowering season begins across many regions! Protect blossoms from late frosts with covers if temperatures drop. Thin the fruit set 3 to 4 weeks after flowering when plums reach marble size. The idea is to leave one plum every 4 to 6 inches. Monitor for plum curculio in Eastern regions.

May

Continue fruit thinning if not completed. Monitor for aphids and apply organic insecticidal soap as needed. Ensure consistent watering as fruits develop – approximately 1 to 2 inches weekly.

June

Apply a second round of fertilizer to mature trees. Prune water sprouts (vertical shoots). Increase watering during dry periods, particularly for Japanese varieties. Monitor for fruit drop and adjust irrigation accordingly.

July

Early variety harvest begins in warmer regions. Support branches carrying heavy fruit loads. Continue deep watering to prevent fruit splitting – especially during fruit sizing. Monitor for Japanese beetle activity in Eastern states.

August

Peak harvest season for most varieties. Harvest in the morning when temperatures are cooler. Pick plums when they have full color but are still firm. Control brown rot by removing any fallen or rotting fruit promptly.

September

Late-season variety harvest concludes. Begin reducing water to encourage dormancy. Clean up fallen plum fruit and debris to stop disease carryover. Apply compost around the drip line (but not touching the trunk).

October And November

Plant new container-grown trees in warmer regions. Rake and dispose of all fallen leaves. Apply mulch to protect the plum tree’s roots for winter, but keep away from the trunk. Install tree guards to prevent rodent damage in Northern areas. Begin the stratification process for seeds.

December

Collect scion wood for winter grafting projects. Continue monitoring for rodent activity around young plum trees. Ensure adequate winter protection for young trees in northern zones.

Choosing The Best Plum Tree Varieties And Cultivars

The trickiest part of growing plums is choosing the best cultivar! We can’t tell you which one to grow. But we can share our five favorite picks – for various growing zones.

Victoria Plum

The Victoria plum is a self-fertile European variety that produces medium to large oval fruits with yellow-green flesh. When fully ripe, the delicious fruits develop a rich amber hue and a distinctive reddish-pink blush. It’s one of the hardier plum trees on our list – perfect if you live in a chillier grow zone.

Tree Size: 10 to 15 feet tall.
Fruit Appearance: Red to purple skin with yellowish flesh.
Taste: Sweet with a hint of tartness – excellent for fresh eating, desserts, and jams.
Days Until Harvest: Approximately 150 to 160 days after bloom.
USDA Growing Zones: 4 to 9.

Homesteaders value their dependable heavy crops and compact growth habits for smaller gardens. However, the Victoria plum tree branches need propping up mid-season, as these branches can get overburdened with ripe, delicious fruit.

Santa Rosa Plum

The iconic Santa Rosa plums represent Japanese plum varieties at their finest. This epic cultivar has a striking appearance and bold flavor profile. But what sets Santa Rosa apart is its intense, aromatic, wine-like sweetness with a tangy finish that develops when it ripens on the tree.

Tree Size: 10 to 20 feet tall, depending on pruning.
Fruit Appearance: Deep reddish-purple skin with golden-yellow flesh. It often has a reddish tinge near the skin.
Taste: Sweet and juicy with a slight tartness. They’re great for fresh eating and canning.
Days Until Harvest: 110 to 120 days after bloom.
USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 9.

Homesteaders prize Santa Rosa for its early bearing habit (often produced within 2 to 3 years of planting) and adaptability to various soil types. The plum tree’s beautiful spring blossoms also provide outstanding ornamental value.

Stanley Plum

The Stanley plum is a gorgeous European variety that produces oval, dark blue-purple fruits with a waxy bloom. Stanley plums are famous for their yummy, sugary taste that makes for excellent home-dried prunes. Stanley trees are also self-fertilized and show remarkable disease resistance.

Tree Size: Around 15 to 20 feet tall.
Fruit Appearance: Dark blue to purple skin with amber flesh.
Taste: Sweet and rich flavor. It is ideal for drying (prunes) and fresh eating.
Days Until Harvest: 150 to 170 days after bloom.
USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 8.

Stanley plums might not be as delicious as other, fancier cultivars. But, these fruits unlock bursts of sweet flavor when cooked – making them perfect for jams, brandies, and baking.

Damson Plum

The Damson plum carries a reputation as one of the oldest cultivated plum varieties! These small, oval fruits have deep purple-blue skin and greenish-yellow flesh that remain quite tart even when fully ripe. Their tart flavor is a characteristic that makes them less suitable for fresh eating but exceptional for preserves, jellies – and also brandy!

Tree Size: generally 8 to 15 feet tall.
Fruit Appearance: Deep blue to almost black skin with greenish-yellow flesh.
Taste: Tart and tangy. Often used for jams, jellies, distilling, and cooking.
Days Until Harvest: 150 to 160 days after bloom.
USDA Growing Zones: 5 to 7.

The astringent fruits of damson plums might pucker lips when fresh. But, their cooked flavor develops complex almond, wine, and spice notes that sweeter varieties cannot match.

Satsuma Plum

The Satsuma plum is a lovely Japanese cultivar with large, nearly round fruits and deep red to purple skin. In fact – the dark red flesh runs clear to the pit, which makes a dramatic presentation when sliced. But what truly sets Satsuma apart is its honey-sweet flavor – arguably the best for eating raw.

Tree Size: Around 10 to 12 feet tall.
Fruit Appearance: Dark reddish-purple skin with dark red to purple flesh.
Taste: Sweet, rich, and slightly spicy – excellent for fresh eating and desserts.
Days Until Harvest: 120 to 140 days after bloom.
USDA Growing Zones: 6 to 9.

Satsuma is a beautiful, compact tree. Its manageable size only reaches 10 to 12 feet at maturity. It also has a gorgeous and remarkable ornamental value with showy white blossoms in spring and attractive mottled bark visible in winter.

Common Problems With Plum Trees

A hungry bee visiting a blooming plum tree with epic flowers.

Plum trees are generally strong and resilient. That said, the following problems might saddle your plans. Here’s how to identify and avoid these issues.

Lackluster Pollination

In a perfect world, your plum trees need two things for healthy pollination. Plenty of plum trees to cross-pollinate – and a ton of bees to help!

Many Japanese plum trees might fail to fruit outright without cross-pollination. Even self-fertile plum varieties produce more abundantly with cross-pollination!

Poor fruit set despite healthy flowering often indicates pollination problems – typically from insufficient compatible pollinators, adverse weather during bloom, or a lack of bees!

Combat this by planting at least two compatible plum tree varieties with overlapping bloom periods within 50 feet of each other. (European plums pollinate other Europeans – while Japanese varieties pollinate other Japanese types.)

Enhance native pollinator habitat by adding flowering plants nearby and avoiding insecticide use.

Brown Rot

This devastating fungal disease (Monilinia fructicola) can destroy entire plum tree crops! It resembles a brown smudge, spreads decay on ripening fruits, and adds fuzzy gray spores. This plum tree ick ultimately leads to dead twigs and cankers.

The best way to combat brown rot is to promote good air circulation by regularly pruning plum trees. Proper spacing can also help increase airflow.

Humid, rainy conditions during flowering and ripening increase infection risk dramatically. If you see any mummified plum fruits – remove them – both on the tree and fallen nearby.

Do you live in an area where brown rot runs rife? If so, apply appropriate fungicide sprays during the pink bud stage, full bloom, and petal fall.

Some varieties, particularly European plums, show better resistance than Japanese types. But no varieties are entirely immune under favorable disease conditions.

Black Knot

This fungal disease creates distinctive black, warty growths on branches that expand until they girdle and kill affected limbs.

Once established, black knot (Apiosporina morbosa) can persist for years in an orchard if not aggressively managed.

Control requires vigilant pruning. Cut affected branches at least 6 to 8 inches below visible knots during winter dormancy. Remember to disinfect tools between cuts with a 10% bleach solution. Burn or dispose of all infected material rather than compost it!

Protective fungicide applications during the critical green tip to petal fall period can help prevent new infections.

European plums generally show higher susceptibility to black knot disease than Japanese varieties – with ‘Stanley’ and ‘Damson’ exhibiting some resistance.

Plum Curculio

Many pests love eating plum trees. Worst of all is the plum curculio! This small, native weevil creates distinctive crescent-shaped scars on developing fruits where females lay eggs. These scars result in wormy plums and premature fruit drop.

The beetles emerge from the soil as trees bloom and can devastate entire crops if uncontrolled.

One of the best organic management strategies is called jarring. It involves placing a tarp below the plum tree and shaking the branches sharply each morning during the first weeks after the petal fall. The idea is to collect and destroy dislodged beetles.

Maintaining a clean floor under the plum tree is another genius way to manage curculio. Curculio larvae often live inside the plums that fall! Discard them to disrupt the lifecycle.

You can also release predatory nematodes to control the larvae – but only in heavily infested areas.

Read More – How To Grow Delicious Apple Trees From Seed!

Conclusion

Handful of delicious plums harvested from the autumn garden.

You’re now ready to embark on your plum-growing journey!

Remember to practice patience as your plum trees develop from tiny seedlings or young saplings into fruit-bearing backyard treasures.

Start small, learn as you grow, and soon, your garden will offer bountiful harvests for your table!

What about you?

Are you going to grow new plum trees this year?
What plum tree cultivar would you try growing?
Will you grow them from a pit? Or get a grafted tree?

Thanks for reading.

Have a great day!