The Ultimate Guide To Growing Spider Plants – Cloning, Propagation, And Long-Term Care!

Welcome to the wild world of spider plants – nature’s most generous houseplant! If you’re looking for a plant that’s part botanical miracle worker, part low-maintenance superstar, and part gift-giving machine, you’ve hit the green thumb jackpot. And if you learn the secrets of spider plant cloning in this article, you’ll have a never-ending supply for your plant-loving friends!

So – let’s explore how to grow, care for, cultivate, and clone spider plants without second-guessing.

Here’s how!

How To Cultivate Spider Plants From Clones

Before diving into how to care for spider plants, let’s talk about how to clone them. This little-known art helps you turn one spider plant into a small army of green companions.

Step 1 – Choose Your Baby Plant

First, pick out the perfect spider plant baby (or “spiderette” if you want to sound fancy). Look for those hanging plantlets that already have some roots starting to form.

You want a baby spider plant with the following traits.

• At least 2 inches long.
• Has several small leaves.
• Shows some tiny root nodes (those small brown bumps).
• Still attached to the mother plant.

Pro tip: The bigger your spiderette is, the better your chances of success! The more it develops initially, the more it can cope with stressful transplanting.

Step 2 – The Preparation Game

Now comes the fun part – getting your baby plant ready for its new home. You have two options here.

Option 1 – Water Propagation

• Fill a small glass or jar with room-temperature water.
• Keep the plantlet attached to the mama spider plant
• Let the baby’s base touch the water.
• Wait for roots to grow about one to two inches long (usually takes one to two weeks).
• Once you see those roots thriving, you can snip the umbilical cord (stem).

Water propagation gives you the magical experience of seeing tiny roots emerge and grow before your eyes. You won’t have to second-guess root growth.

Option 2 – Direct Soil Planting

• Keep the baby attached to the mother plant.
• Get a small pot ready with drainage holes.
• Fill it with a well-draining potting mix.
• Pin the plantlet gently onto the soil surface.
• Keep the soil consistently moist.

Direct soil planting mimics the plant’s natural growth process. It also reduces transplant shock and gives your baby spider plant a head start.

Either method works! If you’re unsure which to try, do both! (When you grow spider plants, you will have many clones to experiment with and use.)

Step 3 – Planting Your Spider Baby

Whether you went with water propagation or direct soil planting, this is where your spiderette gets its forever home (well, until it outgrows it!).

For water-propagated babies:

1. Choose a 4-inch pot with drainage holes.
2. Fill it with fresh, well-draining potting soil (mix in some perlite if you feel fancy).
3. Make a small hole in the center.
4. Gently place your rooted baby in the hole.
5. Cover the roots with soil, keeping the crown (where leaves meet roots) above the soil level.

After the transplant, please give it a gentle drink of water! 🙂

For soil-pinned babies:

• Once roots have established (give it a super gentle tug – if it resists, you’re good!)
• Cover the roots with an inch of soil if necessary.
• Snip the connection to the mother plant.
• No need to replant – it’s already home!

Remember, your new plant baby might look sad for a few days – that’s normal. It’s just going through the plant equivalent of moving into its first apartment. Keep the spider plant’s soil lightly moist but not waterlogged, place it in bright indirect light, and before you know it, you’ll have a thriving new spider plant.

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Spider Plant Growing Requirements

Spider plants are the ultimate chill roommates of the plant world. These laid-back beauties will forgive your occasional neglect and still keep pumping out those adorable baby plants (technically called “plantlets” or “spiderettes”). While they’re easygoing, giving them their preferred conditions will turn them from merely surviving to absolutely thriving.

Sunlight

Spider plants are like goldilocks when it comes to light. They want it just right, and bright indirect light is their sweet spot. This preference makes them perfect for east (or north) facing windows.

Think dappled sunlight, like what you’d get under a leafy tree. While spider plants can tolerate lower light conditions, you’ll notice slower growth and fewer babies. And direct sunlight? That’s a hard pass – it’ll scorch their leaves faster than a vampire at noon.

If you notice brown tips or bleached patches on the leaves, your plant is probably getting too much direct sun. Pull it back a few feet from your kitchen window, or add a thick curtain to filter the light.

Climate

Here’s the good news: if you’re comfortable, your spider plant probably is, too! These adaptable plants thrive in normal household temperatures between 60 to 75°F (or 15 to 24°C). They can handle occasional dips and spikes. But try to keep them away from drafty windows in winter and AC vents in summer.

The real secret to happy spider plants is humidity – they love it! While they’ll survive in typical indoor moisture, they’ll show off with humidity levels around 40 to 60%. There is no need for anything fancy – a humidity tray filled with tiny stones or pebbles and water or grouping them with other plants will do the trick.

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Soil + Fertilizer

Spider plants aren’t picky eaters but appreciate a well-balanced plant diet and good drainage. Use a standard potting mix with extra perlite or coarse sand. Aim for a ratio of about 2:1 potting soil to drainage material. This ratio prevents the dreaded “wet feet” syndrome, which can lead to root rot.

For fertilizer, less is more. Feed your spider plants with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) diluted to half strength once a month during the spider plant’s growing season (spring and summer). Cut back to once every two months in the fall, and give them a winter break from fertilizing altogether.

Over-fertilizing is a common mistake that can lead to brown leaf tips and salt buildup. When in doubt, err on the side of under-feeding.

Watering

Spider plants like their growing soil to dry out between waterings – think of them as the camel of houseplants. Wait until the top one to two inches of soil feels dry before watering again.

During this finger test, it’s perfect if the soil feels like a wrung-out sponge! This frequency might mean watering once a week in spring and summer, while in winter, you might stretch it to every two weeks. Brown leaf tips can signal either under-watering or (more commonly) a buildup of fluoride and other minerals from tap water.

If you notice this issue, try using filtered water or leaving tap water out overnight before using it. One tell-tale sign of overwatering is yellowing leaves. But underwatering reveals crispy, brown leaf tips.

Harvesting Clones

Once your spider plant is mature and happy (usually after about a year), it’ll start producing those iconic trailing stems with baby plants attached. These plantlets are your plant’s way of saying, “Hey, I’m living my best life!”

The best time to harvest these babies is when they’ve developed their little root nodes – those small, brown bumps on the base of the plantlet. You’ll get the most successful clones from plantlets that are at least two to three inches in size and have several leaves.

Don’t feel pressured to harvest every baby – the mother plant is pleased to keep them attached, creating that classic cascading look. And here’s a fun fact: the more babies you leave on, the slower the plant will produce new ones, so regular harvesting encourages more plantlet production!

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Spider Plant Growing And Care Schedule

While spider plants are primarily indoor superstars, they can benefit from seasonal care adjustments and occasional outdoor vacations. Here are the critical dates all spider plant growers should know.

April

Spring wake-up time! April is when your spider plant kicks into active growth mode. Start gradually increasing watering frequency as growth picks up. Resume a regular fertilizing schedule (half-strength, monthly). On warm days (above 60°F or 15°C), you can give your plant some outdoor time on a covered porch or protected balcony. Just bring it in at night if temperatures drop!

May

May is the perfect month to repot if needed. If your spider plant spent winter in lower light, gradually acclimate it to brighter conditions. You can safely move healthy plants outdoors to a sheltered spot with bright, indirect light. But watch out for surprise frost! Keep them close to the house, where you can quickly bring them in.

June

June is the peak growing season! Your plant should produce lots of new growth and send out trademark spiderettes. Check soil moisture daily outdoors, as warm winds can dry pots quickly. June is also the prime time to start propagating any formed babies. Morning or evening sun is fine. But protect them from harsh afternoon rays.

July

It’s heat stress month, so keep a close eye on outdoor spider plants. Move them to shadier spots during heat waves and check their water needs daily. Indoor plants require more frequent watering, too. If you haven’t seen any plantlets yet and want them, try giving your plant slightly longer days by moving it to a brighter spot—this often triggers plantlet production.

August

August is often the last chance to harvest and propagate babies if you want them well-rooted before winter. Continue the summer care routine but start planning for the fall transition. If your plant is outdoors, check carefully for pests before bringing it in for winter – August is prime spider mite season.

September

Time to prep for indoor life! Gradually bring outdoor spider plants back inside before nighttime temperatures drop below 50°F (or 10°C). Clean all leaves thoroughly when bringing plants indoors to prevent pest issues. September is also a good time to trim brown tips or tired-looking leaves.

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Choosing The Best Spider Plant Varieties And Cultivars

Many gardeners think that there’s only one spider plant cultivar. But there’s a surprisingly high number of them! Here are some of our favorites.

Milky Way Spider Plant

The Milky Way is a stunning spider plant cultivar that lives up to its celestial name. The leaves feature a broad, creamy white center stripe surrounded by deep green edges, creating a dramatic reverse variegation pattern. It’s like the negative image of traditional spider plants!

• Size: 8 to 24 inches tall, up to 36 inches wide.
• Appearance: Thin, grass-like leaves with white edges.
• Superpower: Starry appearance.
• USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11.

Milky Ways grow more slowly than others but compensate with its striking appearance. It is perfect for hanging baskets, where its stellar pattern can shine.

Vittatum

This classic spider plant probably comes to mind first – with its white edges and green center stripe. It’s like the grandfather of spider plant varieties, one of the most commonly grown types. What makes Vittatum unique is its vigorous growth and prolific baby-making abilities.

• Size: 1 to 2 feet tall and wide.
• Appearance: Long, slender green leaves with creamy white stripes down the center.
• Superpower: Striking variegation.
• USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11.

The variegation tends to be more stable and consistent than other varieties, making it a reliable choice for novice and experienced growers.

Variegatum

Often confused with Vittatum, this variety flips the script with green edges and a white center stripe. It’s generally more compact than Vittatum and has slightly wider leaves. The white centers can sometimes take on a silvery sheen under certain light conditions, making it an eye-catching specimen.

• Size: 12 to 18 inches tall, trails up to 12 inches.
• Appearance: Strappy green leaves edged in bright white, cascading arching mound.
• Superpower: Classic elegance.
• USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11.

Please note that variegatum can be a bit more sensitive to direct sunlight due to the leaves, which have a ton of white tissue.

Bonnie Spider Plants

Think of regular spider plants, then give them a perm! Bonnie is beloved for its uniquely curly, rippled leaves, which give it an almost ruffled appearance. This compact cultivar grows in a more dense, curved pattern, making it perfect for smaller spaces.

• Size: 6 to 9 inches tall, 1 to 1.5 feet wide.
• Appearance: Curly, variegated leaves with green edges and white stripes down the center.
• Superpower: Twirly leaves.
• USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11.

Despite its relatively shorter leaves (compared to other varieties), it still produces plenty of babies, each sporting the same delightful curl.

Zebra Spider Plant

Zebra is a newer and relatively rare cultivar with distinctive horizontal striping across its leaves, similar to its namesake animal. The variegation appears as alternating light and dark green bands, creating a unique zebra-like pattern. It grows slower than other varieties, but its unusual appearance makes it a prized collector’s item.

• Size: 18 to 20 inches tall, 15 inches wide.
• Appearance: Long, narrow leaves with green centers and yellow edges that turn creamy white.
• Superpower: Bold stripes.
• USDA Growing Zones: 9 to 11.

The plantlets it produces also show the striping pattern, though it might be less pronounced in the babies.

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Common Problems With Spider Plants Plants

Spider plants are arguably one of the easiest houseplants to grow! That said, you might encounter these common issues.

The Case Of The Crispy Spider Plant Tips

Brown, crispy leaf tips are probably the top complaint among spider plant parents, and it’s enough to make any grower pull their hair out in frustration! While everyone jumps to blame watering habits, the real culprit is often fluoride sensitivity. Spider plants are total divas about tap water quality.

The solution? Try collecting rainwater, using filtered water, or letting the tap water sit and air out overnight before watering. If you’re using tap water and notice brown tips despite perfect watering habits, don’t beat yourself up – it’s probably not your fault. A good trim of the brown bits and a switch to filtered water can turn things around.

Cats And Spider Plants – A Cautionary Tale!

Spider plants have an inexplicable feline magnet quality. Luckily, they’re non-toxic to cats. But these plants can become your furry friend’s favorite chew toy or nap spot. Cats love the long, arching leaves and dangling plantlets. (We’ve also heard rumors that spider plants might have a slightly intoxicating effect on felines, similar to catnip. However, we haven’t found scientific proof of these claims!)

Here’s how to protect your spider plants from feline destruction!

• Grow extras as sacrificial cat plants.
• Use deterrent sprays with citrus or bitter apple.
• Place plants in hanging baskets out of cat reach.
• Provide alternative cat-friendly plants like cat grass.
• Redirect your cat’s attention with toys and scratching posts.

Some cats are so persistent that a backup spider plant is a necessary survival strategy for your green babies!

The Clone Invasion

Let’s talk about the elephant in the room – spider plant babies! While those dangling plantlets are adorable at first, they can quickly turn your single plant into an attempt to colonize your entire home.

These babies take energy from the mother plant, so if your plant is stressed or not getting enough nutrients, all those cute spiderettes can become energy vampires.

The solution? Don’t feel guilty about cutting off excess babies (especially if the mother plant looks stressed), or propagate them and share them with friends! But remember, a spider plant making many babies is a sign of happiness! So, it’s less of a problem and more of a humble brag about your growing skills.

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Conclusion

Spider plants are more than just decorative houseplants! They are silent guardians of indoor health and wellness. They’re also air quality experts who tirelessly remove harmful chemicals like formaldehyde and carbon monoxide. Indeed, these resilient plants offer remarkable benefits for both physical and mental well-being.

What about you?

• Do you agree that spider plants are arguably one of the most underrated plants? (They’re more than good looks!)
• What other plants do you grow alongside spider plants?
• Have you ever tried to grow spider plants from seed? Or only from clones?

Thanks for reading.

Have a great day!

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