How To Grow Beautiful Lavender Flowers From Seed In Your Backyard Garden!

So you’ve decided to grow lavender from seed? Get ready for a rewarding journey! These majestic purple blooms look gorgeous in any garden. They also support pollinators, provide calming aromatherapy benefits, and have countless culinary possibilities. While lavender can be a bit fussy to start from seed, watching those tiny seeds change into fragrant beauties is worth it.

Violet lavender flowers growing and thriving in the garden on a sunny day.

So – are you up for a worthy garden challenge?

Let’s dig in!

Germinating Lavender Seeds In 6 Easy Steps

Lovely lavender seedlings ready to ship to customers or plant in the garden.

The journey from seed to spectacular lavender plant begins with understanding the unique germination needs of these Mediterranean natives.

Step 1 – Cold Stratification (The Chilly Nap)

Lavender seeds need a wake-up call for the best germination! Give them a cold stratification period of 3 to 4 weeks in your refrigerator. Mix seeds with slightly damp sand in a ziplock bag, label it (trust me, your future self will thank you), and stick it in the fridge.

This cold cycle mimics winter conditions and tricks the seeds into thinking spring is coming. Sneaky, right?

Step 2 – Prep Your Planting Mix

While your lavender seeds are chilling, prepare a well-draining seed starting mix. Mix regular potting soil and perlite or sand (about a 2 to 1 ratio). Lavender hates soggy feet – sand and perlite help!

Fill small pots for your lavender, or use organic grow pots with this mix. Fill to about ½ an inch from the top. We recommend using organic grow pots because you can easily transplant them directly into your garden without fuss!

Step 3 – Sow Carefully (Light Seekers)

Sprinkle those tiny seeds thinly across the surface. Don’t bury them! Lavender seeds need light to germinate. Press the lavender seeds gently with your finger. Then mist the surface lightly – like a morning dew – not a rainstorm!

Step 4 – Create A Mini Greenhouse

Cover your lavender seed container with plastic wrap or a clear dome to create humidity. Then, place in a warm spot (65 to 70°F is perfect) with bright, indirect light. A sunny windowsill works great. Just remember to avoid the scorching afternoon sun.

Step 5 – Practice Patience (The Waiting Game)

Here’s where your patience gets tested! Lavender seeds take 14 to 28 days to germinate, sometimes longer. Check moisture levels every few days, and remove the cover briefly to prevent mold.

When you spot those first tiny green leaves, do a little happy dance. You’ve cleared the most significant hurdle!

Step 6 – Gradual Toughening

Once seedlings have a few sets of true leaves (the ones that look like lavender leaves), start “hardening them off.” Remove the cover for more extended periods each day. Lavender babies need to build character before facing the great outdoors!

Remember, growing lavender from seed isn’t a race – it’s about enjoying each milestone. Before you know it, those patience-testing seeds will transform into the fragrant, buzzing-with-bees lavender plants of your dreams!

Lavender Flowers Growing Requirements

Stunning purple lavender flowers blooming and thriving in the garden.

Growing lavender can be surprisingly straightforward once you understand its Mediterranean origins. While it’s forgiving of neglect and thrives on minimal care, getting these basics right (especially soil drainage and sunlight) makes all the difference between struggling plants and a fragrant, thriving lavender paradise.

Sunlight

Lavender is a sun-worshipper, plain and simple. Provide lavender seeds, seedlings, and plants at least around 6 to 8 direct sunlight hours daily. Southern or western exposures are ideal. In particularly hot climates, a touch of afternoon shade can be beneficial, but never sacrifice the morning sun. It dries morning dew from foliage and prevents fungal issues.

Climate

Lavender thrives in USDA zones 5 to 9, with English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) being the most cold-hardy down to zone 5.

For warmer zones 9 to 10, Spanish (L. stoechas) and French (L. dentata) varieties perform better.

All types appreciate good air circulation and moderate humidity. In humid regions, space plants farther apart to prevent mildew issues. Lavender evolved in the dry Mediterranean and prefers similar conditions!

Soil + Fertilizer

The secret to lavender success is well-draining, slightly alkaline soil (pH 6.7 to 7.3). Add plenty of coarse sand, perlite, or small gravel to your garden soil to improve drainage – lavender roots will rot in heavy clay.

Skip the rich compost and nitrogen fertilizers, which produce excessive foliage at the expense of lavender flowers and fragrance.

A light application of bone meal in spring provides sufficient phosphorus for blooming without pushing soft, floppy growth.

Watering

Counterintuitively, established lavender thrives on neglect when it comes to water. After plants are established (typically in the second season), water deeply but infrequently.

Allow the lavender’s soil to dry completely between waterings. During first-year establishment, water moderately when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry.

Overwatering is the number one killer of lavender plants! So – keep them on the dry side when in doubt.

Harvesting

Lovely lavender flowers harvested in a wicker basket in the garden.

Someone asked me once if you can harvest lavender. The answer is heck yes!

Regular harvesting promotes bushier growth and more blooms! The optimal time is when flower buds have formed but before they’ve fully opened (usually early to mid-summer), as this is when essential oil content peaks.

Cut stems in the morning after the dew has dried but before the day heats up. Gather stems into small bundles, secure them with twine, and hang them upside down in a dark, well-ventilated area to dry.

Beyond aromatic sachets and culinary uses, regular trimming by harvesting up to one-third of the plant prevents lavender from becoming woody and extends its productive lifespan.

Lavender Planting And Growing Schedule

Gorgeous lavender shrubs with blooming flowers growing in the garden.

Here are the critical dates all lavender growers should know.

April

April is prime time for planting new lavender in the garden as the soil warms and the risk of frost diminishes. Start hardening off any indoor-grown seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions. Prune away any winter damage on established plants once new growth appears, but avoid cutting into woody stems.

May

Complete all new plantings in cooler regions during early May. Apply a light mulch of white gravel or crushed shells around plants to reflect light, deter weeds, and prevent soil from splashing onto foliage. Watch for early signs of bloom formation and monitor soil moisture during spring rains – improve drainage immediately if water pools around plants.

June

June welcomes the first major bloom cycle in most regions. Monitor developing flower stalks and stake larger varieties if needed to prevent sprawling. Begin harvesting early varieties as soon as flower buds form before they open fully. Inspect plants regularly for spider mites during hot, dry spells.

July

July is the peak harvest season for most lavender varieties. Cut stems in the early morning when the essential oil content is highest. Leave at least two sets of leaves on each stem when harvesting. For a second flush of blooms on some varieties, promptly deadhead spent flowers. Water only during extended drought periods.

August

Continue harvesting late-blooming varieties and complete any major harvesting before the month’s end. Finish drying harvested stems and process for sachets, culinary use, or crafts. Reduce watering to encourage plants to harden off before fall. Avoid fertilizing late in the season as it promotes tender growth that is vulnerable to winter damage.

September

September is the perfect time for light maintenance pruning to shape plants and remove spent blooms. However, you should avoid severe pruning, as it could stimulate new vulnerable growth before winter. Prepare for winter by removing any mulch that holds moisture against stems. In cold regions (zones 5 to 6), consider adding wind protection for vulnerable plants with burlap screens set several inches from foliage.

Choosing The Best Lavender Varieties And Cultivars

English lavender is one of our favorite flowers to grow. But did you know there are many lavender varieties? Here are some lesser-known cultivars.

Hidcote

Hidcote is arguably the most beloved English lavender variety worldwide. It’s prized for its intense purple-blue flower spikes that dramatically display against its compact silver-gray foliage. Developed at Hidcote Manor in England, this cultivar combines impressive cold hardiness (Zone 5) with a tidy, mounded growth habit.

Size: About 18 to 24 inches tall and wide.
Appearance: Deep purple flower spikes on compact, silvery-green foliage. It’s highly ornamental.
Bloom Time: Late spring (June) to early summer (August), with occasional rebloom in fall.
USDA Growing Zones: Zones 5 to 9.
Super Powers: Famous for its intensely dark blooms and tight, tidy form. It’s a favorite in formal gardens, borders, and drying projects.

Its fragrant flowers produce superior-quality essential oil, making Hidcote the gold standard for ornamental and aromatic lavender gardening.

Munstead

Munstead earns its reputation as the most reliable English lavender for beginners and challenging climates. Earlier blooming than most varieties, its soft lavender-blue flowers appear abundantly on a remarkably compact plant with excellent, delicate foliage. The name comes from garden designer Gertrude Jekyll’s home, Munstead Wood.

Size: About 12 to 18 inches tall and wide.
Appearance: Soft lavender-blue flowers and compact, bushy growth.
Bloom Time: Early summer, often with a second bloom in late summer.
USDA Growing Zones: Zones 4 to 9.
Super Powers: One of the most cold-hardy English lavenders, ideal for northern gardeners. Named by famed garden designer Gertrude Jekyll.

Munstead’s sweeter, less camphoraceous scent makes it particularly prized for culinary uses, especially in shortbread and other delicate baked goods.

Thumbelina Leigh

Thumbelina Leigh captivates with its charming miniature stature, rarely exceeding 12 inches in height – and still producing surprisingly large, plump flower spikes of rich violet. This dwarf English lavender variety has revolutionized container gardening and small-space design and maintains the strongest bloom-to-foliage ratio of any lavender cultivar.

Size: Only 12 inches tall and wide.
Appearance: Short, dense mounds with fragrant lavender-blue flowers.
Bloom Time: Blooms prolifically in early summer and again in late summer.
USDA Growing Zones: Zones 5 to 9.
Super Powers: Ultra-compact yet incredibly floriferous. It’s a top pick for containers, edging, and small gardens.

Thumbelina has a lengthy blooming period and often treats gardeners to a substantial second flush in late summer when other varieties have finished.

Anouk

Anouk represents Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) at its most dramatic, featuring distinctive “rabbit ear” bracts crowning each purple flower head like flamboyant royal flags. These showy blooms appear earlier than most lavender types and thrive in challenging southern exposures where temperatures soar. It’s perfect for xeriscape gardens and regions with long, hot summers.

Size: About 12 to 18 inches tall and wide.
Appearance: Showy purple flower heads topped with bright, butterfly-like bracts (called “rabbit ears”).
Bloom Time: Late spring through summer, with repeat blooms in ideal conditions.
USDA Growing Zones: Zones 6 to 10.
Super Powers: A Spanish lavender with stunning visual appeal. It’s perfect for modern landscapes or adding exotic flair.

Anouk’s unique visual appeal makes it especially valuable in contemporary garden designs where unusual form is prized.

Grosso

Two lovely lavender shrubs flowering alongside a garden wall.

Grosso reigns as the undisputed champion among lavandin hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia). It’s renowned throughout the commercial lavender industry for its exceptional essential oil yield and robust build. Its massive flower spikes (often 3 to 4 inches long) emerge later than English varieties on impressively tall stems up to 36 inches, creating a spectacular mid-summer display.

Size: About 24 to 36 inches tall and wide.
Appearance: Long, tall stems with violet-blue flowers and gray-green foliage.
Bloom Time: Mid – to late summer.
USDA Growing Zones: Zones 5 to 9.
Super Powers: Grosso is the most fragrant of all lavenders and a workhorse for lavender oil and dried flower production. Tall, showy, and robust.

Grosso’s vigor and disease resistance make it the productivity powerhouse of the lavender world. With minimal care, it can produce stunning dried bouquets and abundant harvests for years.

Common Problems With Lavender Plants

Epic lavender bush with purple flowers against a large stone and pine bark chips.

Even experienced gardeners can stumble when growing lavender. These Mediterranean natives have specific needs that clash with many standard gardening practices. Learning to recognize and fix these issues will transform your struggling lavender into the fragrant, bloom-covered beauty they can become.

Overwatering

The most frequent lavender killer is excess moisture – turning plants yellow and rotting roots before you realize what’s happening. Break the habit of regular watering schedules. Lavender thrives on neglect!

Water only when the soil is completely dry several inches down, and then water deeply rather than frequently. In extended rainy weather, consider temporarily covering plants with clear plastic supported on stakes (leaving sides open for airflow) to prevent saturation.

For potted lavender showing signs of overwatering (yellowing, drooping), immediately repot into fresh, dry soil after trimming away any rotted roots, and hold off watering until the plant recovers.

Planting In Poorly-Drained Soil

Beautiful garden loam that retains water and grows spectacular vegetables will silently kill lavender by trapping moisture around roots. Transform heavy soil by creating raised mounds at least 12 inches high for each plant, mixing in 50% coarse sand or fine gravel with your native soil.

For established plants already suffering in clay soil, carefully dig a series of drainage channels leading away from the root zone, then top-dress around plants (without burying stems) with a 2-inch layer of pea gravel mixed with coarse sand.

In extreme cases, the only solution may be to take cuttings from surviving upper growth and start fresh in properly prepared soil.

Choosing A Bad Variety For Your Climate

That gorgeous French lavender thriving in California garden photos may be doomed in your Zone 5 winter or wilt in your humid southern summer.

English lavenders (Lavandula angustifolia) like ‘Munstead’ and ‘Hidcote’ handle cold down to Zone 5. At the same time, Spanish and French varieties (L. stoechas and L. dentata) excel in warmer zones but may perish in temperatures below 20°F.

For high-humidity regions, seek out specifically adapted cultivars like ‘Phenomenal’ or ‘Grosso’ with improved disease resistance.

If you’ve already planted an unsuitable variety, consider treating tender lavenders as annuals in cold climates or create microclimate solutions.

Plant near heat-reflecting south-facing walls for cold protection or ensure maximum airflow in humid areas by avoiding enclosed spaces.

Conclusion

A red admiral butterfly visiting a beautiful blooming lavender shrub.

Congratulations! Now you know everything you need to grow spectacular lavender, from humble seeds to fragrant, buzzing gardens. So breathe deep! And enjoy the journey – those tiny seedlings will someday sport spectacular blooms that form your new lavender paradise.

What about you?

Will you plant lavender flowers in your garden this year?
Will you grow them to support bees – or for aesthetics?
Do you know which lavender variety or cultivar you want to grow next?

Thanks for reading.

Have a great day!